Iruya North of Argentina: You Should Visit This HIDDEN GEM

Iruya North of Argentina Reading Time:
17 minutes

Iruya, North of Argentina 101

Iruya is in the North of Argentina and is a magical gem of a town. It is technically located in the province of Salta, though the only way in and out of town is along a dirt road from the neighboring province of Jujuy. Most people come to Iruya after first passing through the Jujeño town of Humahuaca, about 3 hours away.

The road from Humahuaca to Iruya is unpaved, bumpy, and incredibly curvy as you wind your way down the mountainside and into the valley. Bring some Dramamine with you if you have a tendency towards carsickness, and choose a seat in the front of the bus. It helped me quite a bit.

The town of Iruya has a population of just over 3000 inhabitants and sits at 2780 meters (9120 feet) above sea level.

The landscape surrounding Iruya is one to sit and admire. It’s unique and drastically different from the mountains I got accustomed to in the Jujuy province. The main activities in Iruya are eating, walking around town, hiking along the Iruya Camino, and catching the views from the lookout points (miradores).

I spent 3 days here and will outline the best things to do in Iruya in this blog post.

Read More: All posts in the SALTA Province and all posts in the JUJUY Province.

NickiPostsTravelStuff.com contains affiliate links and is a member of the Amazon LLC Associates Program. If you make a purchase using one of these Amazon.com links, I may receive compensation at no extra cost to you. Read the disclaimer for more information. I only recommend products that I believe in.

What is Iruya known for?

Argentines will tell you that “Iruya es un sueño,” Iruya is a dream. Iruya is known for its nature and incredible desert/mountainous surroundings. This small Salteño town is not that easy to get to, which means fewer tourists, and less tourism than other Argentine towns. But a trip to Iruya is completely worth it. It’s known for being cut off from the rest of the country. The word Iruya comes from the Quechua language and means “abundance of straw.” The population of Iruya is mostly made up of people with indigenous roots.

Purchase my Salta and Jujuy Ultimate Guide on the Thatch App!

How do you pronounce Iruya?

Ee-roo-sha

In Argentina, the double l (ll) does not make the ‘y’ sound like it does in many Spanish-speaking countries. In Argentina, the double l sound is more like the ‘sh’ sound in English.

The e in Spanish is not said like the short e sound in English (bed). It is said more like the long e sound in English (reed).

Therefore, you will hear the name of this town said as Eeroosha

Where is Iruya located?

Iruya is located in the Salta Province of Argentina. However, there is only one road in and out of town, from Humahuaca, in the Jujuy Province. Iruya is a bit isolated, which is why fewer people tend to make the trek out here. Iruya is one of the last towns in the north of Argentina before reaching the border with Bolivia.

Read More: Ultimate Guide for Visiting Salta and Jujuy

North of Argentina Map

The Argentina map below shows the location of both Humahuaca and Iruya in purple circles. The orange line shows the border between Jujuy (left side) and Salta (right side). The blue line shows the border of Argentina with Bolivia to the north and Chile to the west.

The only road to reach Iruya is from Humahuaca.

How to get to Iruya (como llegar a Iruya)

Get to Iruya by bus (Humahuaca a Iruya)

The easiest way to get to Iruya is from Humahuaca by bus. But ‘easy’ is subjective. You might hear Argentines say “es peligroso ir a Iruya,” (it’s dangerous to go to Iruya), and that is kind of true. There are hours of winding dirt roads, zig-zagging back and forth across the landscape, slowly making its way down into the valley where the road ends in Iruya. Sometimes the bus took such sharp turns, that I found myself looking away because I did not want to look down at those massive drop-offs that had me imagining my death. I put all my trust into the bus driver who does this route hundreds of times per month. If you get carsick easily, take some Dramamine and choose a seat in the front of the bus.

Humahuaca Bus Terminal

The bus terminal in Humahuaca is right on the main road in the center of town. It is easy and obvious to find. There are a few stops along the way to Iruya from Humahuaca where people are selling tortilla rellena, which is great if you start getting hungry. I suggest buying your bus ticket one day in advance if you can. You can buy them at the window at the Humahuaca bus station where you see signs for Iruya.

The schedule Sunday to Friday: 8:20, 10:30, 16:00
The schedule for Saturdays: 8:20, 10:30
PRICE: 650 pesos (in 2022)- approximately 3 USD.
TIME: 3 hours

Iruya Bus Station

The Iruya bus station is right at the entrance to the town. When you leave the bus station, turn left and walk up the path towards the IRUYA sign. This is where you’ll find the hotels and the center of town.

When you arrive in Iruya, check the bus times to return to Humahuaca. Consider buying your return ticket in advance, since there are not many buses going back. This will help you plan your time in Iruya.

Get to Iruya by car

If you have a car, or if you choose to rent a car, it’s possible to drive to Iruya. The only road to get to Iruya is from Humahuaca. The camino a Iruya does take 3 hours, but I strongly suggest driving slowly, as the roads are twisty and bumpy. There are sharp turns and steep drop-offs. Drive during the day and avoid driving at night. If you’re not familiar with this road, you need to drive extra cautiously.

Check availability and prices on RentalCars.com below:

Leave Iruya by taxi

It is possible to take a bus back to Humahuaca (3 hours), and then another bus to Salta (4 hours). But the fastest way to get to Salta from Iruya is through a shared taxi. It’s best to have a local message or call for you to make the reservation one day in advance. I was told that if I message from my foreign WhatsApp number the driver will try to take advantage and ask for more money. The taxi leaves Iruya at 4 am, but more than likely the taxi will be delayed.

COMPANY: Remis Rapido y Curioso: +54 9 387 615 7439
PRICE: 3000 pesos ($15 usd)
TIME: 5 hours to Salta

What to do in Iruya: Lookout Spots & Hiking Trails

Que hacer in Iruya? What is there to do in Iruya? In this precious town, there are many great lookout spots and hiking trails for every level of traveler. Here are my recommendations for the best things to do in Iruya.

I use AllTrails Plus when I go hiking. I highly recommend it as you can download offline maps, and send out “lifelines” to friends and family to let them know exactly where you are. You can rate trails, and get inspired to try new ones. The membership is $35/year, but with this discount, it is just $25 for the year. That’s barely $2/month.

Click here to get 30% OFF of your own AllTrails Plus account
Use code: nickiposts30

Iruya’s Mirador de la Cruz

This is the easiest lookout to get to for mini Iruya hiking. It sits just above the city center. If you follow the Calle San Martin up and around, you’ll arrive in just 15 minutes. From there, you have a fantastic view overlooking the town of Iruya and the surrounding mountains. You can also take a look across the river and up the mountain where another mirador sits: Mirador del Condor.

GOING UP: 10-15 minutes
GOING DOWN: 10 minutes
LEVEL: Easy (just a little steep)

Mirador del Condor Iruya

I was told it is best to reach this lookout around 3-4 in the afternoon because that is when the condors fly around the area. I reached the top around 1:30 pm and didn’t see any condors, so there could be some truth to that. The route up is quite steep, and as everyone will tell you, go slowly, one step at a time. Heed that advice. It would be almost impossible to go fast. Once you reach the top though, it’s very worth it. You can see the road in and out of town, the road leading to San Isidro, and the entire village of Iruya below.

GOING UP: 60 minutes (most people told me 90 minutes, so depends on pace)
GOING DOWN: 30 minutes
LEVEL: Difficult

Mirador de Iruya

This must be Google Maps taking the piss. There is literally nothing here. The ‘Mirador de Iruya’ marked on Google Maps is in reality just a random spot along the road where a few houses are. There is nothing special here. Don’t waste your time.

GOING UP: 15 minutes
GOING DOWN: 15 minutes
LEVEL: Easy

Mirador de San Isidro Iruya

This lookout point is about 6.5 km to the north of Iruya. Follow the road out of town (on the opposite end of town from where you entered/the bus terminal), cross a small river that falls down the edge of a cliff, and keep going. There is only one road so you won’t get lost. The path zig-zags back and forth several times as you go along, so be prepared to jump over some stones as you cross the river. When you reach the town of San Isidro, after about 2 hours, you’ll see a sign welcoming you. Then go up several stairs. Go left at the top of the stairs, and keep following the path to the left.

The path will zig-zag a few more times until you reach a cemetery at the very peak. Follow the path around to soak in the views before heading back the same way you came up. I suggest stopping at the small restaurant at the top of the stairs to get some empanadas. It’s family-owned and you can sit in the sun while enjoying the amazing view.

The path is mostly flat with just a slight incline the whole way. But the last 20 minutes before reaching San Isidro, it gets a bit steeper. The entire way, the path is a dirt road with many small rocks. Expect to balance your way across the larger rocks when crossing the river many times.

GETTING THERE: 2.5 hours
GETTING BACK: 2 hours
LEVEL: Medium

Purchase my Salta and Jujuy Ultimate Guide on the Thatch App!

Iruya Itinerary

While it is possible to see Iruya in one afternoon, I suggest spending more time here if you can. There are beautiful places to go and things to do in Iruya that deserve more time. Below is a basic 3-night itinerary for Iruya.

Day 1 Iruya Itinerary

Take the bus to Iruya from Humahuaca and arrive in the afternoon. Check in to your Iruya accommodations and walk around town. Walk up to the Mirador de la Cruz, and have lunch at Cafe Resto Iruya. Check out the market in the Plaza la Tablada or see if there is a local futbol game going on at the campo deportivo. Have dinner at Hostería Chez DidierM and see if you can catch some live peña music.

Day 2 Iruya Itinerary

Wake up early and walk the Iruya camino to San Isidro, about 2 hours away. Have lunch in San Isidro Iruya at the small family-owned restaurant at the top of the stairs. Explore this small town, and then head back to Iruya. It’s a long day of walking and hiking.

Day 3 Iruya Itinerary

Allow yourself a slow morning after yesterday’s long hike. Have breakfast at your hotel or at Cafe Resto Iruya where you can eat with amazing views. Then head to the other side of the bridge and hike up the steep Mirador del Condor. Bring a sack lunch so you can sit at the peak for a while to enjoy the incredible views, and hopefully see some condors.

If you’re going back to Humahuaca, you can catch a late afternoon bus back from Iruya. If you’re going to Salta, make sure to arrange your taxi pick-up for tomorrow morning.

Day 4 Iruya Itinerary

If you’re going to Salta, the taxi leaves at 4 am. However, the driver might likely be up to an hour late. Stay in contact with him so you know what’s going on. Early mornings can be cold in Iruya. It is best to speak with the driver in Spanish. I hope you enjoyed your Iruya itinerary.

Read More: Ultimate Guide for Visiting Salta and Jujuy

Excursions in Iruya, North of Argentina

If you don’t have much time in the north of Argentina but still want to see Iruya, consider doing some organized trips.

From Salta: Iruya with Quebrada de Humahuaca and Purmamarca

This is a 13-hour day trip that leaves Salta and stops in Purmamarca, Tilcar, Humahuaca, and Iruya, highlighting the best attractions in each of those towns. A guide, transportation, and pick-up is included in the price. Make sure to bring your passport with you.

Book this full-day tour of La Quebrada de Humahuaca

Iruya and Salinas Grandes 2-Day Tour

This is a 2-day adventure that will take you to the Salt Flats in Jujuy, Hill of 7 Colors in Purmamarca, and Iruya. You will sleep in Purmamarca, but food and hotel are not included in the price. The price of the trip includes transportation, a bilingual guide, and hotel pick-up from Salta or Jujuy. Make sure to bring your passport with you.

Book this 2-day trip to Salinas Grandes, Purmamarca, and Iruya.

Food in Iruya, North of Argentina

Cafe Resto Iruya

After adventuring around town, I strongly suggest making a stop for lunch at Cafe Resto Iruya. The views are incredible. The owner, Greta, is a kind and open person who makes fresh dishes full of love. They close early in the winter because it gets cold and the only tables are outside on the patio. But for breakfast, lunch, and merienda, this place is the absolute best!

Hosteria Chez DidierM

This is both a restaurant and a hotel. I came here several times during my 3-day stay in Iruya because it often seemed to be the only place open. In a small town, things close early and open late. But Hosteria Chez DidierM was always there for me. Dinner with live music. Early morning breakfast before my hikes. They weren’t just a place with lights on either. The food was fantastic and affordable.

Where should I stay in Iruya? Hoteles en Iruya

El Hostelito

This is one of the more affordable places to stay in Iruya for budget travelers. El Hostelito has a shared kitchen and offers towels and bed linens. You can only pay in cash. The location is great, right in the center of town and near a market.

Book your budget stay at El Hostelito HERE.

Hosteria Chez DidierM

As mentioned above, Hosteria Chez DidierM was like an oasis in Iruya, always with a light on, meals to serve, and the occasional live music. But this is also a place to sleep, with a great breakfast included.

Check prices and book Hosteria Chez DidierM in the center of town.

Hotel Iruya

The most beautiful hotel in Iruya is Hotel Iruya. It is tucked away in the very back of the town of Iruya, on a hill that overlooks everything. There are stunning views of the town, the valley, and the mountainous cliffs. Breakfast is included each morning, along with fresh fruit juices.

Check availability for the BEST hotel in Iruya.

Is it worth it to visit Iruya north of Argentina?

Absolutely yes! Visiting Iruya is a unique experience. There are so few travelers due to the difficulty of reaching Iruya that you will be treated to an interesting, and genuine experience in the north of Argentina. If you can, try to stay a couple of nights to soak it all in and enjoy the quiet and peaceful nature of Iruya north of Argentina.

Read More: Ultimate Guide for Visiting Salta and Jujuy

TRAVELING SOON?

INSURANCE: Cover yourself with travel medical insurance by SafetyWing.

FLIGHTS: Get the best flight deals with Skyscanner and set flight alerts with Hopper.

STAYS: Check out hotels and apartments with Booking.com and Vrbo.

RENTAL CARS: Get the best deal on rental cars with Discover Cars or RentalCars.

GOING HIKING? Get a 30% discount off your yearly AllTrails+ Account (code: nickiposts30)

eSIM: Get an international eSim with Airalo or eSimple.

CITY GUIDES: Save time and purchase pre-made city guides with Thatch.

CITY TOURS: Book your tour with GetYourGuide and Viator

LUGGAGE: Get the best carry-on suitcase here.

CREDIT CARD: Start earning travel points with the best travel credit card.

BUENOS AIRES GUIDE: Purchase my Buenos Aires travel companion here.

CONSULTATION: Book a 1:1 travel consultation with Nicki here.

SUBSCRIBE: Get the Nicki Posts Travel Stuff newsletter every month.