Glamour and Stimulants: Baby Betelnut Girls

Standing by a busy intersection in Taiwan amongst the grayness of exhaust fumes and a highrise cityscape, are lonesome girls with glamorous outfits, clad in mini skirts, false eyelashes, platform heels, and a sense of confidence to match their flashy exteriors. Stopping nearby cars at the roadside to deliver small packages [betel nuts] to truck drivers and similar blue-collar workers, these girls are somewhat of a Taiwan-only phenomenon, equally cherished and frowned upon. They are known as betel nut beauties or bing lang xi shi/檳榔西施.

 

Uki [left] the co-founder of Baby Betel nut, with Lu9 holding beer, betel nut in a box, and a customized lighter.Shot by Henry Buckley

 

sabukaru took a short trip to Taiwan and got the chance to interview one of the city’s most popular Betel Nut stands, called Baby Betel Nut, to talk the “beauties” who work there, including Uki, co-owner of the shop and a salesgirl herself. But before we dive into the full-length interview, let’s give a quick recap of Taiwan’s betel nut street culture.

 

An outside view of Baby Betel Nut’s shop front, with Xiaoqizi, Uki, Yunei shot by Henry Buckley

 

Dressed in ruffles, lace, and mesh, behind a glass window looking watchfully and maybe even winking at the cars passing by, Betel Nut Beauties are either described by Taiwanese people as a proud cultural phenomenon of the island, or viewed as a source of controversy by conservative sides of Taiwanese society.

 
 

Betel nut [scientifically called Areca catechu], isn’t widely known in a lot of countries outside East and Southeast Asia, but the plant is apparently processed to be the world’s fourth most popular soft “drug” in the world, right behind caffeine, nicotine, and alcohol.

 
 

Betel Nut, as it’s used in Taiwan, had its roots as a sacred/medicinal plant for the country’s indigenous people, but in modern times is used like a “pick me up” type substance that gives a jolt of energy as well as relaxed euphoria. It’s often equated to the effects of cigarette smoking and similar in the health/addictive risks it poses as well. Taiwanese-style betel nut is sometimes nicknamed “Taiwanese chewing gum” by locals, and is usually a betel nut, wrapped in the leaf of a different plant [to improve the flavor], with calcium hydroxide and tobacco paste put in the middle of it to help the body better absorb the chemicals that give the nut its simulating effects.

 
 
 

Variations of betel nut with tobacco, sweeteners, and herbs added

 
 

Betel nut similar to the way served in Baby Betel Nut

 

Betel nut girls emerged in the late 60s-70s in Taiwan, allegedly starting with a small stall owned by the Xie family in the Shuangdong districts section of Zhongtan Highway, run by three sisters. With the girls running the shop, business quickly picked up. Other stores soon started to use the same marketing strategy, using young girls as salespeople wearing flashy outfits that became more revealing over time, and even into the realm of lingerie-like territory. These admittedly cute getups gave betel nut beauties a reputation for being promiscuous or even as sex workers on the side. 

 
 

Such claims, despite maybe a couple of incidents of beauties being involved in illegal activities, were overall sensational and false. However, they gave the girls a stamp of being counter-cultural, rebellious, and even a threat to public morality. Majority-wise, they are simply girls who often come from working class families, with limited access to higher education or other employment options trying to support themselves/ their relatives. Alternative jobs like convenience store clerk or office jobs may discriminate against them due to their backgrounds or even pay less than being a betel nut girl.

 
 

In 2002, the Taiwanese government started to crack down on betel nut girls, just as their popularity was reaching a peak. They created a “3 NO’s” law, effectively banning girls from showing butts, bellybuttons, and breasts, a guideline that betel nut girls and many women's groups/workers rights activists found a bit nonsensical. They argued that controlling what women wear [especially when other models and performers wore equally revealing clothing], would reduce their customers and incomes but also limit their personal freedom. Others argued that bing lang/betel nut posed a number of health risks to users and that marketing a harmful product with “sexy” girls would make the practice more popular than it should be. 

 
 

Right now, betel nut isn’t as popular as it used to be, although truck drivers and blue-collar workers are still loyal customers and by far the heaviest users in general. Maybe it’s become out of style or maybe people have become more concerned with the risks of oral cancer and gum rot posed by betel nut chewing. Local stands have become fewer in number, and even the iconic vision of a betel nut beauty with towering heels, long hair, and make-up coated faces. 

 
 

One store called Betel Nut Baby, in Taiwan’s Songshan District neighborhood, is not only revamping the legend of the betel nut girl, but including new facts of subculture with DJ sets, pole dancing, an intoxicating Y2K-meets-2023 aesthetic, and artistic merch spanning photographer books, handmade lighters, and pinups of the girls available for sale. 

 
 

Sabukaru talked with Uki, a betel nut salesgirl, and co-founder of her own shop Betel Nut Baby, alongside her boyfriend, to hear firsthand what a day in the life of a betel nut girl is like.

P.S the writer is a fan of chewing betel nut.

 

The girls organizing betel nuts shot by Henry Buckley

 

AN INTERVIEW WITH UKI, CO-FOUNDER OF BABY BETEL NUT

 
 

HEY, UKI THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR SITTING DOWN WITH US TODAY! COULD YOU SIMPLY INTRODUCE WHO YOU ARE AND WHAT YOU DO TO THE SABUKARU NETWORK?

嘿!非常谢谢你今天抽空坐下来和我们聊, 你可以向SABUKARU简单的介绍一下你是谁和你做了什么吗?

Uki: My name is Uki, and I have been running the shop Baby Betel Nut for three years. I used to think that betel nut beauties were very beautiful, but after I grew up, I didn’t see as many betel nut stalls in Taipei as I did when I was a child. So, I want to try to bring these things back.

我叫Uki,宝贝槟榔开了三年。以前会觉得槟榔西施很漂亮,可是长大之后在台北就没有再像以前小时候看到这么多槟榔摊的文化跟感觉,所以想尝试把这些东西带回来。

 
 

MOST OF OUR READERS ARE LOCATED IN JAPAN OR ABROAD IN WESTERN COUNTRIES WHO HAVE NO IDEA WHAT BETEL NUT IS, TO SOMEONE WHO'S NEVER TRIED ONE BEFORE, HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE THE SENSATION? 

我们的读者大多是住在日本或是西方国家, 他们不知道槟榔是什麽, 也从来没有听过, 当然也不晓得槟榔店的反主流文化. 对从来没有尝试过的人, 你会怎麽描述吃槟榔的感觉?吃起来跟兴奋剂很像吗?还是像抽烟的酥麻感呢?

Uki: I think betel nut is a bit like a stimulant, it makes your blood circulation faster and then has a refreshing effect. In the cold winter, many people like to eat betel nuts, because it warms you up. Many older truck drivers like to eat betel nuts to refresh themselves during long-distance driving.

Uki:我会觉得它有点像兴奋剂,它会让你的血液循环变得比较快,然后起到提神的作用。如果冬天很冷的话,就会有蛮多人喜欢吃槟榔,会让身体变得热热的然后暖起来。很多司机大哥都很喜欢吃,他们开长途车的时候会吃槟榔来提神。也有很多外国人会觉得槟榔吃起来有点像可卡因,吃起来的感觉会有一点。

 
 

BETEL NUT SHOPS IN THE WEST OR JAPAN DON’T HAVE AN EQUIVALENT, BUT SOME SAY IT’S MOST SIMILAR TO A SMOKE SHOP [WITH THE EXCEPTION THAT IT’S RUN BY VERY PRETTY GIRLS]. HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE A TYPICAL TAIPEI BETEL NUT SHOP?

在国外或日本是没有类似槟榔店的店铺的, 但有人说它有点类似卖菸店(除了槟榔店是由非常养眼的女店员们经营)。请问你会怎样描述在台北典型的槟榔店呢?

Uki: When it comes to a typical betel nut shop, I think the girls in the shop must be pretty, and they dare to wear fewer clothes. But now most of the betel nut shops in Taipei are aunts or older ladies who sell betel nuts. So, I think that the “classic betel nut shop” that we all think of when you mention “betel nut shop” has hotter girls, and the decoration of the shop will have the atmosphere of window girls. This is the typical betel nut shop that I hope to achieve. There are very few shops like this in Taipei now. Generally, the original ones are more reckless, and in that way my place is the same.

Uki:说到一般的槟榔店,我觉得店里的姑娘一定是漂亮的,而且敢于少穿衣服。但现在台北的槟榔店大多是阿姨或大妈在卖槟榔。所以,我觉得比较经典的槟榔店有比较辣的女孩,店内的装修也会有橱窗女孩的氛围。这就是我希望达到的典型的槟榔店。现在台北很少有这样的店。一般来说,年龄大的,比较鲁莽的,我也是一样。

 
 
 
 

HOW IS BABY BETEL NUT DIFFERENT FROM THESE STORES? 

宝贝槟榔摊跟其他槟榔摊不同的点在哪?

Uki: The decoration and impression of our store is very new. In addition to selling betel nuts, we also organize events around this culture, such as electronic floats and pole dancing performances. At the same time, we will also combine popular elements, such as Y2K style, and make some original merch to sell.

Uki:装潢和店铺的形象。我们除了卖槟榔以外,也会做这部分文化的活动,比如说电子花车和钢管女郎。同时也会结合当下比较流行的元素,比如说Y2K,然后做一些周边来卖。一般槟榔摊都是没有这些的,它们还停留在比较传统地卖槟榔。

 
 

HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE THE BETEL NUT BEAUTY LOOK THESE DAYS? WHAT ARE SOME KEY PARTS OF THE LOOK?

请问你怎么描述最近的槟榔摊辣妹的样子呢?主要是有哪些特色呢?或者是有哪些品牌跟配件必需品才能算是槟榔摊辣妹的穿搭?

Uki: Confidence and charisma are essentials for a betel nut beauty. For the outfit part, I will see what a girl personally likes to wear. I hope that she can try different outfits when she goes to work and be more daring. I won't help them to formulate the rules of dressing, it's they who dress themselves up. It’s whatever they feel like wearing.

Uki:槟榔摊辣妹的必需品就是自信跟魅力。穿搭部分我会看她个人喜欢穿什么,会希望她上班的时候可以尝试跟以往不同的穿搭,就更大胆一点。我不会帮她们去制定穿搭的规则,都是她们帮自己打扮。

 
 
 
 
 
 

THERE’S A LOT OF OBSESSION WITH BETEL NUT GIRLS IN TAIWAN, THEY SORT OF HAVE AN INFAMOUS REPUTATION as “TROUBLE MAKERS” AMONGST CONSERVATIVE PEOPLE IN TAIWAN WHO LINK THEM WITH ILLEGAL ACTIVITIES. WHY IS THAT? HOW MUCH OF THIS “REBEL” IMAGE IS MYTH AND HOW MUCH OF THAT IS TRUE THESE DAYS?

台湾对槟榔摊辣妹有很多迷恋,在台湾保守派的人叫她们“麻烦製造者”,觉得她们和“非法”或者是跟“不合法”有关联,这是为什麽呢? 最近,这种“反叛”形像是造谣还是真的?

Uki: I think this is a concept shaped very much by Taiwan’s conservative social atmosphere and environment, and not so much fact or evidence. This kind of view is not good. Girls can wear very little and dress beautifully if they want to. Of course, the older elders may feel that it is very degrading to work at the betel nut shop because they must wear very little, but I think what we do is quite positive and healthy. Misunderstandings will exist, but it still depends on how your supervisor views this matter.

Uki:我觉得这是社会风气和环境所塑造的观念,这种观点是不好的。女生本来就可以穿得很少,也可以穿得很漂亮。当然年纪比较大点的长辈可能会觉得去槟榔摊工作是很不好的,因为都要穿得很少或者是给别人看之类的,但我觉得我们做的都还蛮正向蛮健康的。有色眼光一定会存在,但还是取决于你主管如何去看待这件事情。

 
 

TELL US A BIT ABOUT YOUR BACKGROUND, AND BECOMING INVOLVED IN BETEL NUT BABY AND ITS CULTURAL SCENE.

跟我们聊聊你的背景, 你是怎么开始接触槟榔摊文化然后当起槟榔摊辣妹呢?

Uki:At the beginning, the girls around us and I liked to organize parties and show ourselves, the most important thing for us is to dare to dress up. So, I think it's cool to come and run such a business, and it's a good thing to break away from tradition and show it to others. So, I proposed the idea of starting a betel nut shop with a good sense of aesthetics, and then my friend said that I could do it and supported me, so then we just started it!

Uki:刚开始是我们身边的女生都很喜欢办活动,很喜欢展现自己,最主要是敢穿。所以我觉得来去经营这样一家企业很酷,跳脱传统,展现给别人看也不会错。一开始是我提出这个想法,然后朋友说可以做做看也很支持我,然后我就开始做了。

The first step is to start from a simple direction. For example, we didn't spend too much money on decorations, and we did it ourselves by using the resources around us. Then we kept going and held events, and then people would come here to take pictures and shoot movies. In fact, many of the decorations in the store are provided by the customers who come, and they gradually accumulated.

 

The interior of baby Betel Nut. Shot by Henry Buckley

 

第一步是从简单的方向开始,像是装潢我们也没有花太多钱,都是运用自己身边有的资源自己来的。接着就一直去做活动,然后会有人来这边拍照、拍电影,其实现在店内很多装潢和装饰都是来的顾客提供,慢慢积累起来的。

HAVE YOU GAINED SKILLS WHILE WORKING THIS JOB?

做槟榔西施这份工作你有得到什么力量吗?

Uki:I think it is to make myself more daring to wear. I have also gained quite a lot of experience in this job. For example, the girls around me will come to help each other, we all dress up together or start to wear some things that we thought were not suitable for us before. Girls will learn from each other how to dress up, and girls will influence girls. I think this is quite important. When a girl dares to wear whatever she wants and show herself, I think other girls will gain the confidence to do what they want to do.

Uki:我觉得就是让自己更敢穿。除此之外,我在这份工作上得到蛮多经验的,比如说身边的女生也会一起来帮忙,大家一起打扮,或者是开始穿一些之前觉得不太适合自己的东西,慢慢地去敢尝试。女生跟女生之间会互相会学习打扮的方式,女生会影响女生,我觉得这件事也蛮重要的。一个女生敢穿敢露,另外一个女生也会得到自信去做她想要做的事情。

 
 
 
 

WHAT DO YOU THINK THE MOST COMMON MISUNDERSTANDINGS ABOUT BETEL NUT BEAUTIES ARE?

你觉得槟榔摊辣妹最常被误解的点是?

Uki: Betel nut beauties usually wear very little clothing, some people will treat them with prejudice, and feel that this girl can be easily violated or disrespected because of that. But we opened this store and ran the Instagram account to let them understand that this culture is quite cool and nothing to be ashamed of. It is to keep the good things from the past and combine them with the culture we like. I think it is an innovation.

Uki:槟郎西施穿得很少,有些人就会带着有色眼光去看待她们,会觉得这女生是不是可以被摸之类的。但我们开这间店铺和Instagram是在让他们去了解其实这个文化是蛮酷的,是把以前好的东西留下来,与我们喜欢或是接触到的文化去做结合,我觉得是一个创新。

 

Lu9 and Uki, shot by Henry Buckley

 

DO YOU EVER FEEL DISRESPECTED BY YOUR CUSTOMERS?

你有没有过客人不尊重你的经历?

Uki: Speaking from my own personal experience, I would think that some guests' stares are not very respectful. The girls have sometimes encountered disrespectful treatment, but very rarely. Stuff such as being inappropriately touched happens, but in the end, we caught that person and asked him to compensate. We are all strong inside and know how to protect ourselves.

Uki:以我自己个人的经验来说,我会认为有些客人的眼神不太尊重。我们同事有遇到过不被尊重的对待,不过很少,就类似被偷偷摸身体之类的,但也有抓到那个人让他赔钱。我们内心都很强大,我们都会保护自己。

 
 

WHO’S A LEGEND IN THE BETEL NUT BEAUTY SCENE, SOMEONE WHO OTHER BETEL NUT GIRLS TRY TO COPY OR ASPIRE TO LIVE UP TO?

谁是槟榔界的传奇人物, 或是一位大家都想效彷或崇拜的人?

Uki: There is no one for us to emulate. We are the ones that set the tone. For the general public, the betel nut beauty is a style icon of sorts.

Uki:没有一个效仿的对象,对普罗大众来说,槟榔西施就是一个值得被效仿的对象。

 

Lu9 shot by Henry Buckley

 

LASTLY, DO YOU HAVE ANY LAST WORDS FOR SOMEONE WHO IS THINKING OF BECOMING A BETEL NUT BEAUTY TO BE SUCCESSFUL IN WHAT THEY DO?

最后, 对有想要成为槟榔摊辣妹的女孩们, 你有没有想要说的话, 以帮助她们事业成功?

Uki: Be confident and dare to try different styles. Betel nut beauty is a bit like a springboard or a space, allowing them to do what they want to do and dress the way they like. Many girls do not know what they want at each stage, or when they are confused, girls can influence each other, and they can gradually find their own type and style that they like, or create something no one has done before. So I think girls should dare to try, they should have the courage to try everything they want to do even if it’s risky.

Uki:要有自信,敢尝试不一样的风格。槟榔西施有点像是一个跳板或是一个空间,让她们可以去发挥自己想做事,穿出自己喜欢的样子。很多女生在每个阶段都会不知道自己真正想要的是什么,或是在比较迷茫的时候,女生可以互相影响,也可以慢慢找到自己真的属于自己喜欢的类型跟风格,或是创造出以前没有人做过的事情。所以我觉得女生要敢尝试,应该鼓起勇气去尝试自己想做的每一件事。

I hope that the work of betel nut beauty can help them not only have self-confidence but also find directions for other things because they need to know what they want.

希望可以借由槟榔西施的工作让她们有自信以外,对于其他事情也可以找到方向,因为要知道自己想要什么。

 

Uki and Lu9 shot by Henry Buckley

 

Words by Ora Margolis

Photos by Henry Buckley and Ora Margolis

Chinese and English Translation by Sammi Li

Chinese Transcription by Lee

Big thank you to Uki, Yunei, Xiaoqizi, and Lu9, the girls of Baby Betel Nut