十年風水輪流轉！擺脫俗氣的象徵，今年必備單品「牛仔褲」重新襲捲時尚圈！

如果要在時尚產業的百年歷史時間軸，畫上一筆記號，2021 年的夏天絕對是最重要的一個區間：丹寧時尚回潮！在疫情期間，牛仔褲的銷售額卻意外開始逐漸上升當中，LEVI'S 已經預估今年上半年收入將會增加四分之一，戶外零售公司 L.L. BEAN 也統計牛仔褲的總銷售額甚至即將超過先前流行的鬆緊帶運動褲。

另外一大因素，絕對是 Tik Tok 抖音在疫情期間的快速升起。根據電商平台 Lyst 統計，TikTok 的短時影片是單品流行的先發之處，凡是在 TikTok 上搶先火紅的單品，最後也會連帶影響整體單品的銷售量，不只是 Instagram、Tik Tok 也開始成為品牌的時尚單品實驗室，可見年輕人在時尚產業扮演的角色越來越重要，四月更有報導指出：年輕 Tik Toker 認定緊身牛仔褲將不再流行，寬筒、直筒牛仔褲才當道！

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丹寧時尚死亡的十年？

從 2010 年到 2020 年之間的十年時光，可謂丹寧時尚「死亡」的十年，當然，熱愛丹寧的藏家依舊存在，不過這段時間牛仔褲真的與時尚沾不上邊，甚至穿上街也會被笑「俗氣」。回想起這十年，時尚業界因應社會產生大幅改變，運動的風潮興起影響了人們的時尚品味，進而追求休閒與時髦兼具的選項，像是 Lululemon 的崛起就是最好的時代驗證。

你會願意花多少錢買一條牛仔褲？LEVI'S 的創辦人李維・史特勞斯在 1850 年代末期，看見淘金工人穿著的棉布褲很容易磨破，他開始研發出歷史上的第一件牛仔褲，利用厚實帆布製作，受到廣大的工人族群歡迎，也終於在 1871 年申請專利成立 LEVI'S 第一家牛仔褲公司。雖然後續許多西部牛仔電影、貓王的誕生，都將牛仔褲推上全球的流行，不論是平價品牌，還是高級時裝品牌都能推出牛仔褲款式，因此當市場達到飽和的時候，高價的牛仔褲在市場上就相對弱勢了。牛仔褲的起源不像其他服裝，並非起源於皇室宮廷，它們終究離不開「平價」的歷史既定印象。

牛仔褲為什麼又起死回生？

如上所說，Tik Tok 和 Instagram 在時尚圈是非常重要的兩大社群媒體，而主導的正是介於 2000 年左右出生年輕人，在這一個新的十年，「Y2K 時尚潮流」成了最主流的流行趨勢，回溯到這些年輕人的童年流行，包括小甜甜布蘭妮、艾微兒、小賈斯汀的所屬男團 NSYNC 等，寬大的及地牛仔褲在他們身上屢見不鮮。流行音樂也意外發展起 1970 年代的古著嬉皮喇吧褲，超受年輕人關注的女星 Dua Lipa 推出的最新專輯「Future Nostalgia」可以說是推波助瀾這波 70 年代復古 disco 的牛仔風潮。

American boy band NSYNC, circa 2001, (L-R) Chris Kirkpatrick, JC Chasez, Justin Timberlake, Joey Fatone, Lance Bass. (Photo by Tim Roney/Getty Images)Tim Roney

CELINE HOMME 2022 夏季男裝系列推出 ELEPHANT JEANS，結合嬉皮、DISCO 元素，凸顯放蕩不羈的男性氣質，再搭配上閃耀的亮片上衣，完整展現叛逆風格。

過去的流行絕對是從時裝秀上藉由媒體、名人擴散到大眾，有了社群媒體的興起，你很難完全區分流行的走向是不是開始相反？從牛仔褲這件事來看，極高的可能就是從現在的Z世代影響回來！今年展出的 2022 春夏男裝時尚秀，再次將牛仔褲玩出新風貌：BALENCIAGA 在早春系列首度將牛仔褲搬上時尚秀的舞台，今年 6 月的同志驕傲月系列，也推出寬大帽 T 搭配 2000 年的牛仔褲款，慶祝 21 世紀出生的年輕世代的 LGBTQ+ 族群；接下來，到了 7 月初，BALENCIAGA 大動作地將牛仔褲加入相隔 53 年回歸的高訂系列，結合了西裝和黑色皮鞋，採用日本用心製作牛仔褲的古法，保留傳統的織布技術、車縫工法等細節，讓牛仔褲不只流於毛衣和連帽衫的休閒穿搭，也能與高級訂製的西裝和披巾做結合！CELINE HOMME 也不約而同在 2022 夏季男裝系列推出 ELEPHANT JEANS，結合嬉皮、DISCO 元素，凸顯放蕩不羈的男性氣質，再搭配上閃耀的亮片上衣，完整展現叛逆風格。

BALENCIAGA 2022 春季男裝時裝秀，將牛仔褲結合工裝褲的設計，加上許多金屬環和鉚釘改良拉鍊，增添牛仔褲的新風貌。

BALENCIAGA 今年六月為了慶祝 Pride Month，推出專屬的年輕 LGBTQ 系列，主要都以牛仔褲作為下身的穿搭搭配。

7 月初，BALENCIAGA 睽違 53 年，再次展出男裝高訂系列，重新定義牛仔褲只適用於休閒服的既定印象，大膽玩味牛仔褲在高訂服裝裡的合理性。

總結來說，新興媒體以及社群媒體的使用者，包括創作、主窄現代流行音樂的歌手，再次讓丹寧時尚回潮，長久受困於疫情的關係，作為這些潮流年輕人的重磅回歸，也開始決定擺脫在家的舒適居家運動服，正視出門和返回城市生活的工裝扮相，牛仔褲勢必會是未來重要流行趨勢之一，各位準備好你的丹寧時尚了嗎？

PARIS, FRANCE - JUNE 23: A guest wears black glasses, a gold chain pendant necklace, a white tank-top, a pale yellow long shirt, a black shiny grained leather biker jacket, a black shiny leather belt, blue faded denim flared jeans pants, a gold ring, a brown shiny leather crocodile pattern computer handbag, black shiny leather pointed block heels ankle boots, outside ETUDES, during Paris Fashion Week - Menswear Spring/Summer 2022, on June 23, 2021 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)Edward Berthelot

PARIS, FRANCE - JUNE 24: A guest (L) wears black Ray Ban sunglasses, white pearl earrings, gold chain pendant necklaces, a black and white print pattern belted shirt short dress, a white leather crossbody bag, white leather crocodile print pattern heels pointed knees boots, a guest (R) wears a white with black inscriptions cap, a black shiny leather shirt, a black t-shirt with a white H logo, a silver chain necklace, a silver chain pendant necklace, blue and white print pattern cargo pants, outside LGN Louis Gabriel Nouchi, during Paris Fashion Week - Menswear Spring/Summer 2022, on June 24, 2021 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)Edward Berthelot

PARIS, FRANCE - JUNE 25: A guest (L) wears silver earrings, a white oversized shirt, camel / brown large pants, a brown shiny braided leather crossbody bag, a beige cotton tote-bag with multicolored print pattern, black shiny leather ankle boots, a guest (R) wears silver earrings, a white t-shirt, a black shiny leather jacket, a blue denim Prada crossbody bag, a black shiny leather with a silver logo buckle from Ralph Lauren, blue denim large jeans pants, black shiny Air Max Plus sneakers from Nike, a silver ring, outside Officine GÃ©nÃ©rale, during Paris Fashion Week - Menswear Spring/Summer 2022, on June 25, 2021 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)Edward Berthelot

PARIS, FRANCE - JUNE 26: A guest wears a pale pink denim crossbody bag, a black long sleeves t-shirt navy blue denim jeans flared pants, pale gray sneakers, during Paris Fashion Week - Menswear Spring/Summer 2022, on June 26, 2021 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)Edward Berthelot

PARIS, FRANCE - JUNE 26: A guest wears black sunglasses, a beige with black polka dots scarf, a white ribbed t-shirt, a dark green with white stripes fluffy shirt, a brown print pattern blazer jacket, a black leather crossbody bag, blue denim jeans pants, white shiny leather block heels pointed ankle boots with silver metallic toe-cap, during Paris Fashion Week - Menswear Spring/Summer 2022, on June 26, 2021 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)Edward Berthelot

PARIS, FRANCE - JUNE 26: A guest wears a white ribbed tank-top, a navy blue with white stripes blazer jacket, a gold pendant chain necklace, a gold ring, blue faded denim flared ripped jeans pants, black shiny leather block heels pointed ankle boots, during Paris Fashion Week - Menswear Spring/Summer 2022, on June 26, 2021 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)Edward Berthelot

PARIS, FRANCE - JULY 07: Bryan Boy wears sunglasses, a blue with white striped polo shirt, a khaki blazer jacket, a black shiny leather crossbody bag from Celine, blue faded denim jeans pants, gold rings, black shiny leather pointed block heels ankle boots, outside Jean-Paul Gaultier, during Paris Fashion Week - Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2021/2022, on July 07, 2021 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)Edward Berthelot

PARIS, FRANCE - JUNE 23: A guest wears a white a black jacket, blue denim jeans ripped in the shape of a crescent moon rolled-up pants, white ribbed socks, black shiny leather and fluffy ankle laces boots, outside ETUDES, during Paris Fashion Week - Menswear Spring/Summer 2022, on June 23, 2021 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)Edward Berthelot

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